IndiaPrinting

Indian textile printing

India has a long history of fine textiles, both cotton and silk. Traditional printing methods have influenced designers all over the world. Here are of some of the techniques used. Tiggy has a passion for Indian textiles, Indian print and printing techniques, so we decided to track down some of the traditional textile printing methods and record them before they vanish.

A traditional method going back hundreds of years - by using string or thread to bind the cloth tightly to resist the dye getting to the cloth. Traditional tribal patterns are created this way.

As each item takes time and patience to prepare and each piece is unique.
Here in Udaipur this family have passed this knowledge down from generation to generation been making individual tie-dye items to a very high standard of workmanship for centuries

Traditional Tie-dye

Ilyas mixing hot dyes. His ability to match colour exactly is amazing.

Tying the cloth

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Block printing by hand

Indigo is a natural plant that grows well in India. As demand is so high these days a synthetic substitute is now used.

With this block printing technique you can either print a pattern on the fabric and over-dye the colour by immersing the whole cloth into the indigo vat.

Or by using a resist 'Dabu' paste (mud) they hand print a pattern that will prevent the dye getting to the cloth. When the resist is washed off the pattern is revealed.

The rust and red colour dye is made from iron soaked in water and jaggery (sugar).

The indigo plant

Old indigo pots

The indigo vats

Preparing the the Dabu resist (mud) so it is fine enough for printing.

The dyed cloth is laid out in a field to dry in the sun

Block printing and Indigo

Really sophisticated designs can be made by using multiple block prints with more than one colour - and a resist, before immersing the cloth in the indigo vat.

This family has really perfected this method and is high on fashion designers list, and supplying cloth for well known stores.

Traditional tie-dye techniques are now being overtaken by screen printing. They can reproduce and repeat all the traditional designs in a fraction of the time.The cloth is printed outdoors, and dries quickly in the heat.

The above photos were all taken in Rajasthan. To find out more about these locations - or to book Tiggy for talks on India, Indian printing or sewing techniques with demonstration workshops contact
tiggy.rawling@btconnect.com

Tying the cloth

The prepared cloth - tied and stitched and pulled tight

After first dip the cloth is re-tied and or stitched.
The cloth is re-tied for each colour

The final dip, resting

A selection of finished items

Blue is not the only colour!

Making new wood blocks

Block printing with dye and a dabu resist.

Dyeing and washing the cloth

Cloth drying in the sun

Washed cloth

Old wood blocks

All photos are available as hi-res images. contact keith.rawling@btconnect.com

The prepared cloth

Silkscreen

Old blocks

Block printing by hand. Setting the pattern on the cloth.

Block printing Indigo

Tie-dye

As the popularity for tie-dyed fabric has grown, so has the need to increase production. Here a family-run business are producing tie-dye on a lot larger scale. Using string, rubber inner tubes or even plastic to bind large amounts of cloth, together with larger dye pots means they are able to produce cloth on a much grander scale.